Published on 07 March 2012



WELL-SEASONED FISH IS A MUST...




AN AVOCADO SLICE - JUST BECAUSE, NAH...

How to explain the goodness that is Coo-Coo & Callaloo?
It's such a strangely named dish, but it's one of the most delicious and satisfying Trinidadian staples I know. Back home, anyone worth their salt can whip this together in a few minutes, and I'd like to think that I'm fairly good at doing the same. Although, having a full-time Trinbagonian chef to make these things for me wouldn't hurt, either.
The trick to a sumptuous Coo-Coo & Callaloo is the consistency and flavour of each dish. The corn meal used for the former has to be boiled in water with cut ochroes and a pinch of salt till it's well bound, but not too smooth. Nobody likes a lumpy Coo-Coo, but a putty-esque version is even worse.
Callaloo is a little more complicated. Callaloo bush - or dasheen leaves - hold the key to the taste, but since its notoriously difficult to find outside of a West Indian hub in the US, I approximate the flavour with spinach leaves. It's not the exact thing, but its as close to my mother's Callaloo as I can get without hovering over her pot.
Then, there's the ochroes again. These have to be steamed in their own water with some onions & garlic, then beaten along with spinach, coconut milk and the all-important scotch-bonnet or habanero pepper; you've got to be careful not to whip the Callaloo mix into a fine frazzle, because if you only crush that pepper in the mix...
Stewed fish or bits of crab is usually served with this dish, and once you get the right, wild-caught sort, you're essentially halfway home. This was my grandmother's 'Saturday' dish, and I remember going to her house on a weekend and waiting for the fishman to roll around with his cart, singing 'Fiiiiish! Redfish, Carite and Joshuaaaaa!"
As soon as he popped around with some fresh Carite, you knew Coo-Coo & Callaloo wasn't too far behind.
Alas, there's no fisherman coming to my front door with Carite, so I generally use Tilapia or Mahi-Mahi, rubbed down with ground black pepper and green seasonings - I prefer a mix of cilantro, chive, and Spanish thyme. A squeeze of lime finishes off the whole thing nicely.
With the substitutions and consistencies worked out, all that's left is to quickly bubble those pots and spoon out the Coo-Coo into whatever lightly greased vessel you prefer; small to mid-sized ramekins does the trick for me. Let it stand and cool for a few minutes, and it will form into a jello-like shape, albeit one made of corn meal.
And, of course, nothing is complete without a teeny piece of zabocah on top...
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